• Centuries-old craft represents identity, resistance, and aesthetic expression in Yoruba culture

ABUJA, Nigeria / ISTANBUL

Adire fabric, crafted for centuries by the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria, is more than a textile—it symbolizes identity, resistance, and aesthetic expression.

The traditional fabric is made by decorating white cotton with wax or stitching techniques, then dyeing it with natural or synthetic colors.

Handcrafted Adire is known for its cultural depth, influencing both local daily life and African art.

This art form, reflecting women’s craftsmanship and social memory, highlights Nigeria’s rich cultural heritage.

Once exclusive to royalty and the elite, Adire has since spread across social classes, becoming a symbol of pride and identity for many.

Originating from Abeokuta, which is in southwestern Nigeria’s Ogun State, Adire fabric blends traditional art with modern life and remains one of the strongest symbols of Yoruba cultural identity.

Multi-step process requires patience, skill

Ayodeji Basirat Atinuke, born and raised in Abeokuta, continues her family’s Adire-making legacy.

"I can say that I was born to make Adire. I really love doing it," she told Anadolu.

Adire making, she said, is a family craft passed down from her grandparents to her parents and now to her.

For years, it has provided a source of income and empowerment for women while also helping preserve traditional Yoruba motifs.

Describing the intricate production process, Atinuke said it requires both patience and skill.

"We shape the fabric with molds in different patterns. Then, we wet the fabric with regular water. We mix the dye with hot water and dip the patterned fabric into it. After wetting, the dye doesn’t come out right away, so at the end, we squeeze the fabric with sticks and dry it in the sun," she explained.

Most patterns are applied using wax, starch, or stitching techniques. During the dyeing process, the areas covered by these materials resist the dye, resulting in contrasts and visually rich designs.

'Not just a pattern, but an identity'

Atinuke said Adire reinforces women’s social and economic roles in Yoruba society, symbolizing female solidarity and the tradition of collective production.

She emphasized that the craft, passed down through generations, carries deep cultural significance, with each motif and color telling a story or conveying a message.

“Each motif on Adire fabric reflects the values, proverbs, observations, or scenes from the daily life of the society,” she said.

Many young designers are incorporating Adire into modern fashion, bringing global attention to the centuries-old tradition, she added.

"Adire is not just a pattern but an identity. I grew up with it; I breathe with it. I hope this craft is passed on with the same passion to the generations that come after me," she added.