ISTANBUL 

Recycled polyester, widely promoted by global fashion brands as an environmentally friendly choice, may be worsening the microplastic pollution crisis, according to a new study released Wednesday.

The report, published by the Dutch organization Changing Markets Foundation and conducted by the microplastics research group at Cukurova University in Türkiye, found that garments made from recycled polyester released 55% more microplastic particles during washing compared to clothing made from virgin polyester.

Researchers also found that the particles shed from recycled fabrics were nearly 20% smaller, making them more likely to spread through the environment and be ingested by living organisms.

According to the study, a single wash cycle can release up to 900,000 microplastic fibers. Due to their size and persistence, microplastics have been detected in soil, oceans, drinking water, and even in the human brain, placenta, and reproductive organs.

Urska Trunk, a campaign manager at the Changing Markets Foundation, said the findings contradict the fashion industry’s marketing, YLE news reported.

“The fashion industry has marketed recycled polyester as a green solution, but our results show that it exacerbates the microplastic problem,” she said.

“The right solutions would be to reduce the production of synthetic fibers and stop using plastic bottles in the production of disposable clothing.”

Recycled polyester is typically weaker and more brittle than virgin polyester, though the study did not directly measure fiber strength.

Researchers tested a limited sample of garments from five major brands: Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, and Zara. While not comprehensive, the results showed stark differences between companies.

Nike’s recycled polyester released the highest amount of microplastics — over 30,000 fibers per gram of fabric, nearly four times more than H&M and seven times more than Zara.

Shein’s recycled and virgin polyester products emitted similar amounts of microplastics, raising questions about supply-chain integrity.

The foundation said polyester fraud — in which garments labeled as recycled may actually be made from virgin plastic — is “common.”

Despite growing concerns, most major fashion brands plan to significantly expand their use of recycled polyester, with some pledging to transition to 100% recycled plastic by 2030.

Microplastics have been linked to a growing number of health concerns, and scientists say the particles now appear in “every environment on Earth.”