A spicy sojourn in the heart of Istanbul

ISTANBUL

By Burcu Arik Ozer

With stock loads of spices, herbs, honeycomb and nuts - and the overwhelming scent that hits its visitors at first sight - the Spice Bazaar has adorned the bosom of Istanbul's historic peninsula over the last five centuries.

Located near the iconic Sultanahmet Mosque and Hagia Sophia, the high-ceilinged marketplace has historically been a major center of spice trade. Now it attracts tourists - mainly Arabs - solicitous of silver jewelry, olive-oil soaps and Turkish delight.

"It's worth going to the Spice Bazaar for the experience," says a young woman named Rania from Saudi Arabia. "I've never seen anything like it. I found the silver jewelry very amazing."

The bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar to honor its source of financing when it was built in 1660, is an extension of the New Mosque complex in Eminonu district. Its revenues have helped support the upkeep of the mosque and its philanthropic institutions such as a school, a hospital and several baths.

Upon entering the L-shaped market, the overwhelming scent coming from hundreds of spices on sale capture you. Where the stalls in the bazaar originally only stocked spices and herbs, over the years other edibles were added, such as nuts (kuruyemis), honeycomb (petekbal), Turkish delight, dried fruit and vegetables, mature hard Turkish cheese (eski kasar), caviar and smoked or dried beef (pastırma).

"The winter tourist season is in full swing in the Spice Bazaar although summer is the best," says Tunay Tayfun, a cheerful-looking salesman in a Turkish spice market.

"Spice Bazaar mostly attracts Arab tourists. They visit the bazaar all year," he says. "They are so solicitous about silver jewelry and olive-oil soaps while the Europeans and Americans are interested in woven rugs and antique floor coverings in the bazaar."

Tayfun says while European tourists continue to top the list, high-spending tourists from Arab countries have experienced the biggest percentage jump among visitors.

Touring inside, Amanda from Poland says the bazaar is a good place to start the journey in Istanbul.

“It's a delight to browse this huge bazaar that seems to sell almost everything. It's like a maze inside, but, don't worry, you won't get lost. Lots of shops for souvenirs as well as expensive jewelry and bags," Amanda says.

"Nothing can prepare you for the Spice Bazaar. A full-fledged exploration should be started from the New Mosque and the Spice Bazaar."

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