ISTANBUL
As dusk settled over Nagu town in southern China’s Yunnan province, the steady rhythm of traditional drums echoed through narrow streets, signaling the arrival of Ramadan.
Children gathered beside elders, shopkeepers paused in their doorways, and families drifted toward the Najiaying Mosque, where generations have marked the beginning of the Muslim holy month with sound, prayer and shared meals.
Just meters away, the Ramadan bazaar hummed with activity. Food stalls filled the air with the aroma of grilled meats, noodles and sweet milk tea, while residents and visitors alike browsed seasonal delicacies.
For the town’s roughly 8,000 Muslims, the scene is both spiritual and festive – a familiar ritual that blends faith, food and community life.
Preparation for Ramadan begins days in advance. Families shop for special ingredients, buy new clothes and plan gatherings.
Across China – home to an estimated 25 million Muslims, primarily from the Hui and Uyghur communities – culinary traditions differ by region, reflecting local cultures and histories. In Najiaying, for instance, rice noodles and beef dishes are staples of the fasting month.
“This year is different because Ramadan coincides with Chinese New Year,” social entrepreneur Ma Erzhao Yusuf told Anadolu by phone. During the holiday, millions travel back to their hometowns. “Many Muslims are observing and breaking the fast with their families,” he said.
A bazaar that feels like a festival
Ma, who produces social media content highlighting popular places and Muslim heritage sites across China, said the Ramadan bazaar is the town’s central attraction. A native of Najiaying, he and his wife have guided tour groups across China to showcase its diverse cultures and landscapes.
“My mother has already done the necessary shopping,” he said. “And in our region, the Ramadan bazaar is the main attraction.”
The market opens several days before Ramadan begins and remains open for about a week after it ends. Vendors sell barbecued meats, noodles, pastries and milk tea – a beverage beloved across China.
“Many people, including non-Muslims, come from other cities and towns to visit the market,” Ma said. “It feels like a festival, very lively.”
Shared meals and daily rhythms
Daily routines shift during Ramadan. Early morning shopping is common, and rice noodles are a favorite pre-dawn and evening meal.
“Rice noodles are popular – easy to digest and a signature food of Yunnan province,” Ma said.
Families gather for the pre-dawn meal, known as suhoor, before beginning the day’s fast. By sunset, the community gathers again to break the fast.
“In the past, there was a regular tradition of drum beating before suhoor. The tradition continues, but the frequency has decreased,” he said.
After a day of work, residents head to the mosque for iftar. In many mosques, iftar is arranged collectively by mosque management, reinforcing the sense of shared experience.
“There is a bell that is struck every day to announce iftar,” Ma said. “We go to the mosque, break the fast before prayers, and then return home for food.”
He recalled childhood memories of early mornings and school days shaped by Ramadan routines. “I remember falling asleep on the bus after the pre-dawn meal,” he said with a laugh.
Ramadan memories across China
For Haiyun Ma, a historian originally from Qinghai province in northwestern China, Ramadan evokes childhood memories rooted in centuries-old Muslim traditions.
“Islam has been part of the region’s cultural landscape for centuries, so Ramadan there feels deeply rooted and communal,” he told Anadolu.
Now teaching at Frostburg State University in the US, Ma recalls evenings at the mosque as the highlight of the month.
“The most fun part was going to the mosque in the evening. Different families would share dates and other treats to break the fast together.”
Sometimes, children received small bags of sweets and dates before prayers, making Ramadan, he said, feel “holier and tastier.”
Families frequently invite relatives, friends and community elders for suhoor or iftar, while mosques become lively centers of social life.
As Ramadan foods vary widely across China, Ma has fond memories of traditional dishes from Qinghai, including oil cakes, a type of fried pastry; wheat soup; and mixed meat and vegetable soups.
Other specialties include hand-held lamb – boiled, steamed or roasted lamb meant to be eaten by hand – chilled rice or wheat noodles dressed with chili, vinegar and pungent spices.
Pre-dawn meals often consist of tea, steamed bread or mantou stuffed with meat or vegetables, butter, cooked meats and vegetables. “Hearty but simple foods to sustain the fast,” Ma said.
For iftar, families traditionally begin with boiled red dates cooked with sugar.
“Then tea, followed by rice with vegetables or noodles with meat and many other dishes,” he said. “It’s comforting, warm and very communal.”
Community, generosity and memory
Across China’s Muslim communities, Ramadan carries a strong sense of togetherness.
“It always felt collective – you never felt alone,” Ma said. The taste of dates at the mosque, he added, “is simple but unforgettable,” and nearly every night feels like a dinner gathering somewhere.
As Ramadan draws to a close, preparations begin for Eid al-Fitr. Families visit elders, children receive “salam money,” and homes fill with guests and celebration.
For Ma, the essence of Ramadan extends beyond fasting.
“It is about community, generosity, food, memory and joy,” he said.
